Bring a New Bunny Home: Simple Guide for 1st Timers

Welcoming a new rabbit home is an exciting and rewarding experience! Rabbits are cute yet intelligent animals that many never knew about- keep one and you’ll understand what i mean 😉! They make wonderful companions when cared for correctly but they can be fragile and easily prone to stress and health issues.

Whether you’re bringing home a baby bunny or adopting an adult rabbit, the set up and care is similar, just minor differences in their diet.

This super simple guide will walk you through what to buy, how to help your new rabbit settle in, and what to watch for to keep them healthy.

Essential Supplies

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For a Young Rabbit (under 6 months)

Young rabbits are growing at this stage, most of their diet should be catered to developing bones and muscles! They’ll be on a higher protein diet, we also do not start offering wet foods like fruits and vege too early as their gut system is still stabilising. You may start to feed a small leaf of vege after the rabbit has settled down in your new house after 3 months of age (provided your rabbit consistently gives good healthy poo, no signs of diarhea/soft stool the past few weeks). I must say firstly, that some rabbits’ gut cannot handle wet foods well, and that, is perfectly okay. They do not need to be forced to take vegetables if their gut is sensitive and gets diarhea when wet food is introduced. As long as your rabbit is on a good diet of high fibre hay, that is the most important!

Here’s what you’ll need to get started:

1. Small litter tray with low sides (easier for young bunnies to hop in and out)

2. Fresh water bottle or bowl (heavy ceramic ones work best) - I have an article about bottles vs bowls

3. Appropriate cage or playpen (safe, enclosed, and spacious enough to move around) - make sure the gaps are not too big that the baby bunny’s head can squeeze through, once their head can pass through, their body can squeeze through too.

4. Soft bedding (paper-based; avoid pine or cedar shavings)

5. Hiding box or tunnel (optional) - i personally dont encourage putting this at the start as it can create a fearful rabbit at the start if they are not well socialised (largely dependant on character of rabbit and our habits around them) and also may hinder potty training habits as a fearful rabbit may be hiding most of the time, and pee/poo inside the hideout…

6. Food bowl and hay rack

7. Grooming brush (weekly maintenance, daily is shedding) - a simple slicker brush works.

8. Baby gates or play pen (to create a bunny-safe space for supervised roaming)

9. Carrier to transport your bunny

10. Pellet food specifically for young rabbits (higher in protein) - do not suddenly change brands of rabbit pellets, if you prefer to change to a different brand, please do a gradual switch over the course of 5-7days to help the rabbit get used to new foods. Very important, as they can get diarhea.

11. Timothy Hay (low protein, high fibre) - to be fed throughout the life of a rabbit, unlimited amounts!

12. Alfalfa hay (high calcium and protein content for growth) - as a daily supplement to theit diet, I give about 1 grab of the hand to 2 daily depending on size of rabbit. I do not practise giving this 100% for multiple reasons. Some rabbits develop soft stool after having too much high protein foods which can be fatal if your rabbit’s gut system is not strong enough. Soft stool can be messy to clear up too. Alfalfa hay is sweeter than other hay, many rabbits like the taste of this. But because of its high protein content, it should be removed from a rabbit’s diet after your rabbits have developed most of its body mass, we gradually remove this at about 4months and your rabbit should be feeding on high fibre hay like timothy hay for the rest of its life. So if your rabbit has been 100% on alfalfa for prolonged periods, it likely may have trouble transitioning to eating timothy hay which is not as sweet as alfalfa. Many many owners in Singapore face this problem, of rabbits not eating timothy hay. And this is supposed to be up to 90% of their diet! Too much alfalfa can lead to obesity in older rabbits.

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For an Adult Rabbit (above 6months)

Adult rabbits tend to be more independent and might already be litter trained if adopted. Here’s what to prepare:

1. High-quality hay (timothy, orchard grass or meadow hay) - timothy hay is ideal as it has hard stalks for chewing which can help grind their teeth. The other types of hay may be added as a variety but ideally should not be their main hay.

2. Adult rabbit pellets (fiber-rich and lower in protein)

3. Sturdy litter box with paper-based or wood-pellet litter

4. Large enclosure or exercise pen (indoor rabbit cages should be large enough for three hops in every direction)

5. Heavy ceramic food/water bowls - they are very strong and can bite and throw bowls around!

6. Hideout or tunnel for fun

7. Rabbit-safe toys (cardboard, apple sticks, puzzle toys)

8. Grooming tools (brush, nail clippers)

9. Hay rack (to keep hay clean)

10. Carrier (for vet trips or emergencies)

Settling In: Give Your Bunny Space to Adjust 🏡

When you first bring your rabbit home, it’s important to give them time and space to acclimatise - this is very very important, we give this approximately 1 week. Once they are settled, most rabbits are pretty safe and live good long lives from here. I have to emphasize this because we have heard too many cases of rabbits that die within the first week at home because they get stressed easily (any vet will tell you that rabbits are unpredictable)!!

Moving to a new environment is stressful for any animal, and rabbits—being prey animals—are especially sensitive to change ya!

For the first week, keep your home calm and avoid overwhelming your rabbit with too much interaction. Let them explore their new enclosure on their own terms. Avoid picking them up unless necessary, and instead sit quietly nearby to let them get used to your presence, touch and smell. This helps build trust and comfort around you. As long as they are eating well, drinking well, pooping well and active, they are doing great!

Monitoring Your Rabbit’s Health 🩺

Rabbits are masters at hiding illness, so it’s essential to keep a close eye on their behavior and habits. Twice daily observation or even more often, helps catch problems early.

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Signs of a healthy rabbit:

• Eats hay, veggies, and pellets regularly

• Drinks water consistently

• Poops frequently (round, dry pellets) and urinates regularly

• Active and curious

• Clean eyes, ears, and nose

• Smooth, clean coat

• Grooms themselves often

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Warning signs to watch for:

• Not eating or pooping for 2+ hours (can be life-threatening if it extends beyond 6-12hours) - GO TO A VET immediately if more than 6 hours

• Lethargy or hiding excessively - lethargy + not eating MUST BE TAKEN TO VET IMMEDIATELY!

• Diarrhea or very small, misshapen poop

• Grinding teeth loudly (a sign of pain) - VET IMMEDIATELY

• Runny nose or eyes

• Laboured breathing

• Head tilting or balance issues - VET as soon as you can

• Sores on feet (sore hocks)

• Injuries

If you notice any of these signs, consult a rabbit-savvy veterinarian immediately. It’s also a good idea to find a rabbit-experienced vet before bringing your bunny home, so you’re prepared in case of emergency.

Final Tips

• Rabbits need daily playtime outside their enclosures- to stretch and exercise

• They’re social animals and do best with companionship (either human or another rabbit—once bonded).

• Neutering or spaying is highly recommended for behavior and health reasons.

• Keep all cords, toxic plants, and small objects out of reach—they love to chew!

Bringing a rabbit home is just the beginning of the journey! Hope yours will a rewarding and lovely one like mine was!